First Wave: Discover How Wind Creates Swells

Wind, Swells & Your Surfing Experience

How Wind Shapes Waves

The ocean’s waves start with the wind. When wind blows across the surface of the sea, it transfers energy into the water, creating ripples. As this energy builds and travels over distance, those ripples grow into swells - the rolling waves that surfers ride.

For surfers, understanding how wind creates and affects swells is crucial. The direction, speed, and consistency of wind determine whether you’ll find clean, surfable waves or messy, choppy conditions.

Types of Swells

1. Local Wind Swell

• Formed when winds blow close to the coast.

• Usually shorter, choppier waves with less power.

• Great for beginners learning in small, forgiving surf.

2. Ground Swell

• Generated by strong winds far out at sea, sometimes hundreds of kilometres away.

• Travel long distances and arrive as organised, powerful waves with longer intervals between sets.

• Preferred by experienced surfers seeking cleaner, more consistent rides.

3. Mixed Swell

• A combination of local wind swell and ground swell.

• Can create unpredictable or “messy” conditions, but sometimes offers fun variety in wave size and shape.

Why It Matters for Surfers

• Wind Direction: Offshore winds (blowing from land to sea) hold waves up, making them clean and glassy. Onshore winds (blowing from sea to land) push waves down early, making them choppy.

• Swell Period: The time between waves - longer periods (10+ seconds) usually mean more powerful, well-formed waves.

• Planning Your Surf: Learning to read swell forecasts helps you choose the right spot for your ability, from mellow beginner waves to powerful reef breaks.

Tip for Beginners:

Don’t just look at wave size - check the wind direction, swell type, and period. A smaller, clean ground swell with offshore winds often feels smoother and easier than a bigger, messy local wind swell.