Second Wave: Explore Wave Quality

How to Spot the Best Surf

Not all waves are created equal. Some roll in smooth and glassy, perfect for long rides. Others close out quickly or crumble before you can stand. Knowing what makes a “good” wave and how to read the ocean before you paddle out will not only improve your surfing but keep you safer and more confident in the water.

Overview of Factors Affecting Wave Quality

Several natural elements combine to shape the waves you surf:

• Swell: Waves are born from wind over the ocean. The size, power, and spacing of swell (called “swell period”) all influence wave quality. Longer swell periods usually mean stronger, more organised waves.

• Wind: Offshore winds (from land to sea) hold waves up and create clean, glassy faces. Onshore winds (from sea to land) make waves choppy and harder to ride.

• Tide: Some breaks work best on high tide, others on low or mid-tide. Tides change wave steepness, power, and even expose or cover hazards like rocks and sandbanks.

• Ocean Floor (Bathymetry): Sandbanks, reefs, and point breaks shape how a wave peels. A steady sandbank can create long rides, while uneven bottoms cause waves to close out.

Reading Surf Conditions

Before paddling out, take a few minutes to observe:

• Where are waves breaking? Along a defined sandbank, or closing out across the whole beach?

• How steep are they? Gentle spilling waves are forgiving; steep plunging waves are more powerful.

• What direction is the wind? Look for whitecaps on the water (a sign of onshore wind) or glassy faces (offshore wind).

• What is the tide doing? Rising or falling? This can completely change a break’s personality within an hour.

Pro surfers say the best skill isn’t just riding waves, it’s choosing the right ones to catch.

Analysing Local Surf Conditions (Gold Coast Example)

• Burleigh Heads: Famous point break that works best with mid to high tide and a clean ground swell. Offshore winds from the west help hold up the long right-handers.

• Currumbin Alley: Beginner-friendly on smaller swells. Works well on a rising tide, but gets crowded.

• Duranbah (D-Bah): Powerful beach break that often works on lower tides. Best suited to more experienced surfers.

Every spot has its own rhythm. The more time you spend watching, the more patterns you’ll notice - when sandbanks form, how tides shift, and which winds clean up your favourite breaks.

Key Takeaway

Wave quality isn’t luck, it’s the result of swell, wind, tides, and the ocean floor working together. By learning to read these elements, you’ll not only score better waves but deepen your connection to the ocean.