IN THIS LESSON
Discover the basics of oceanography and why it’s essential for surfers. Understand how the ocean influences your surfing experience.
Introduction to oceanography
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What is Oceanography?
Oceanography is the scientific study of the ocean, its physical, chemical, biological, and geological systems. It helps us understand how the ocean works, how it supports life on Earth, and how human activity affects it.
The Four Main Branches of Oceanography
Physical Oceanography
Studies waves, currents, tides, and how the ocean interacts with the atmosphere.
Explains phenomena like El Niño, cyclones, and climate change.
Chemical Oceanography
Examines the ocean’s chemical makeup: salt, oxygen, nutrients, and pollutants.
Looks at how human activities (like plastic waste or CO₂ emissions) change water chemistry.
Biological Oceanography
Focuses on the plants, animals, and microorganisms that live in the ocean.
Explores food chains, ecosystems (like coral reefs and mangroves), and biodiversity.
Geological Oceanography
Studies the seafloor: its rocks, sediments, tectonic plates, and features like trenches and volcanoes.
Helps explain coastal processes like erosion and beach formation.
Why It Matters for Surfers & Coastal Communities
Predicting waves, tides, and rips keeps us safe in the water.
Understanding ecosystems helps us protect reefs, seagrass beds, and marine life.
Tracking climate and pollution helps us care for the future of our oceans.
Questions
Why does understanding waves matter?
How do tides and currents tie into surfing?
What emotional or wellbeing benefits arise from ocean awareness?
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Oceanography Explained YouTube video
“You can’t stop the waves, but you can learn to surf.”