IN THIS LESSON

Discover the basics of oceanography and why it’s essential for surfers. Understand how the ocean influences your surfing experience.

  • Introduction to oceanography 

Play the Video

What is Oceanography?

Oceanography is the scientific study of the ocean, its physical, chemical, biological, and geological systems. It helps us understand how the ocean works, how it supports life on Earth, and how human activity affects it.

The Four Main Branches of Oceanography

  1. Physical Oceanography

    • Studies waves, currents, tides, and how the ocean interacts with the atmosphere.

    • Explains phenomena like El Niño, cyclones, and climate change.

  2. Chemical Oceanography

    • Examines the ocean’s chemical makeup: salt, oxygen, nutrients, and pollutants.

    • Looks at how human activities (like plastic waste or CO₂ emissions) change water chemistry.

  3. Biological Oceanography

    • Focuses on the plants, animals, and microorganisms that live in the ocean.

    • Explores food chains, ecosystems (like coral reefs and mangroves), and biodiversity.

  4. Geological Oceanography

    • Studies the seafloor: its rocks, sediments, tectonic plates, and features like trenches and volcanoes.

    • Helps explain coastal processes like erosion and beach formation.

Why It Matters for Surfers & Coastal Communities

  • Predicting waves, tides, and rips keeps us safe in the water.

  • Understanding ecosystems helps us protect reefs, seagrass beds, and marine life.

  • Tracking climate and pollution helps us care for the future of our oceans.

Questions

  1. Why does understanding waves matter?

  2. How do tides and currents tie into surfing?

  3. What emotional or wellbeing benefits arise from ocean awareness?

You can’t stop the waves, but you can learn to surf.
— Jon Kabat‑Zinn